Boat dimensions –

The depth of the boats is approximately 3″ and the length is 17″.

Power bus – 

All the 17″ cases here have holes pre-cut to accept Craig’s power distribution strips.

Threads –

The steel units are threaded directly.  The threads are formed rather than cut, which affords a slight strength advantage.

The alloy units require steel threaded inserts (eurorack tapped strip) as its felt that a 1.5 mm skin of alloy is not strong enough to support a thread that may be reused many times into the future.  Helicoils are not suitable for this application.

Tapped thread specifics –

The LW17 cases can be fitted with either M3 or M2.5 threaded strip, depending on what is more available to the end user.  I sell M3 here, and M2.5 is available all over.

A pair of 84hp lengths are required, but these are fractionally too long to fit the inside of a 17″ wide (external) case, so 1hp must be trimmed off the end.  I offer pre-trimmed strips in the shop, or you can just get out your hacksaw.

Most users will just want to buy a pair of threaded strips, but for those on a tight budget, its entirely possible to fit one boat just using one strip, if its cut up cleverly. In which case, if you are buying from me, buy the fill 84 length strip. Or buy M2.5 strip from your usual place, as M2.5 is usually cheaper than M3!

Finish –

    • Silver

Silver (cheaper) boats are supplied unfinished.  They are shipped with the original protective plastic film on from manufacture, which, when removed, reveals a very lightly brushed finish.
However, there may (well, probably will be) small tooling marks from the folder etc. present.
These will not affect the sound, however, some users may want to get rid of them.

There are two very easy options –

a) Get an abrasive pad, commonly known as “scotch pad” but, really, that’s just a brand name.  The green plastic wiry stuff on the back of a common domestic washing up sponge is basically the same stuff.  Pennies from any supermarket, if you don’t already have them under your kitchen sink!
Lightly drag, or, brush the surface to create a brushed finish.  Then leave the job for at least 8 hours, for the natural aluminium oxide skin to re-form.
This oxide skin is stable, but a little porous (its the same layer as coloured anodising dyes) so may, over time, pick up environmental contaminants.  It will not “rust” or fall apart, or anything like that at all, but it may change tone in a smokers studio, pick up finger prints from people with especially corrosive sweat, etc. etc.  If ever required, the surface can be re-brushed using the same technique again.

b) “Polish” the surface with some proprietary “gunk”.  Brands differ in different regions, but, generally, these products are made up of a slightly abrasive cutting agent, and a film to remain on the surface and seal it off from the air.
“Brasso” is an ancient product that’s been available in the uk for decades, but, again, every territory will have similar.  Or, if you are into car detailing, use your car polish then wax.  In technical terms, all you are doing is abrading off the upper microns of the surface and sealing it from the air.  Again, many many products, but they are all doing the same basic thing.
Or again, just leave the boats as is, and enjoy their raw sound…

The silver boats are made with two customers in mind –

Purists, and to cater for the DIY builders who want an entry into the system without haemorrhaging money!

    • Black

If you’re more of a Henry Ford advocate  ( “Any customer can have a car painted any colour that he wants, so long as it is black.”) then get a boat in black.  They’re more money but you wont need to peel the plastic film or look at tooling marks.


Mounting holes –

These units have holes in the end to allow mounting.