All the timber that we ever use in our own products is locally sourced. Virtually all of it will have germinated, grown, and been felled within a 20 mile distance of our workshop.


In this, I prefer to use hardwoods that grow well in our local climate. The internet is awash with American youtubers cutting up American Black Walnut, but, whilst its entierly possible for me to source that if custom work requires it, i would always rather use timber with a lower transport impact.

I like figured wood, pippy oak etc, or with the shakes that other people reject. Resin work with oak, whilst time consuming, always looks good with natural splits and holes.


Sometimes i will choose spalted timbers. Beech is particulary impressive. Its not always easy to find spalting that is just right, and so this is always less common for me than, for example, white english oak.


The variation in timbers, and methods used accounts for the variation in pricing in the stocked products in the shop. Its easy to hack out generic parts from a plank, and some of our products are just that. Thicker timbers with subtle (or not so subtle!) resin work are both more expensive in stock, and the resin work can take multiples of the production time of simply cutting a plank. Its for this reason that the pricing seems to leap about!

Note, every item in the shop that is made of wood is the exact item for sale – so browse about and see what appeals to your own taste!


I also take on custom work also –

Custom work is never a budget option, simply because of the time and process involved, but if you want something special, then let me know what you have in mind!

Generally the job is designed in CAD, then sent to the CNC machine to cut templates in alloy. These templates are then replicated onto the wood itself using manually operated machinery. This, somwhat convoluted approach, ends in a nicer final product, as template placement by eye, in order to take account of the grain or “figure” of the wood, tends to work better than just running a plank through a CNC router.

Depending on the stock, things like bookmatching may be possible (see the cherry ended console cases elsewhere on the site)

Wood ends can also be painted to give an entirely different style all together!

My paint experience is from the auto world. Give me a brush, and ill make a mess. Give me a spray gun and I’m at home!

With the right paint, even, otherwise dull materials, like MDF can come into their own. I only use 2k paints, partially as they’re what i have experience of, but, mostly, as they’re just worlds better, even on wood.

As a generalisation the method used would be identical to that of painting a car, with an epoxy primer, 2k base, and 2k clear coat for that glossy wet look.


Timber species, some of which are availible all the time, some of which you may have to wait for –


Locally grown hardwoods, including:

          • English Oak

          • Pippy Oak

          • Beech (generally only if its spalted, as that makes it so much more interesting!)

          • Cherry

          • Sweet Chestnut

          • Elm (very occasionally)


I am reluctant to work with virgin imported timbers. I do not consider it necessary, given the wonderful and sustainable species that we have, quite literally, on our doorstep, here in Rural Devon, however, occasionally i find reclaimable timbers from overseas –

          • South Amercian Mahogony

I have access to a an amount of reclaimed genuine south American mahogany. Ethics, not to mention CITES, rightly prevents the use of most mahogany, however, reclaimed timer work whilst hugely time consuming, still gives access to this timber.

          • Sapele

An easy to machine lighter weight hardwood, somewhat (in my opinion, given the context of my other timbers!) plain, however, has, traditionally often been used for higher end items.